— — a Greek temple the centuries forgot to take down.
“One of the best-preserved Doric temples anywhere in the Greek world, standing on a low ridge above the sea south of Agrigento. Built around 440 BCE, repurposed as a Christian church in the sixth century, and so kept up rather than quarried for stone. The colonnade still runs almost intact: thirty-four columns, the entablature, the pediments. Almond trees come into flower around it in February, before anything else in Sicily. At low sun the limestone turns the colour the Greeks chose this stone for.
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The Temple of Concordia stands on a low ridge in the Valle dei Templi, the archaeological park that runs along the southern edge of Agrigento in Sicily. The ancient Greek city, Akragas, was founded around 580 BCE and grew into one of the wealthiest in the western Mediterranean. The temple was built around 440 to 430 BCE in the peak Doric style, a peripteral hexastyle on a stylobate of about 39 by 17 metres. The original dedication is unknown; the name Concordia comes from a Latin inscription found nearby and has stuck since the eighteenth century. UNESCO inscribed the valley in 1997.
The temple is built of local calcareous tufa, a porous, honey-coloured limestone quarried from the ridge itself. In antiquity the stone was finished with a thin layer of white stucco to imitate marble; that surface is gone, leaving the warm raw rock the building is now famous for. Six columns front and back, thirteen down each flank, the entablature and both pediments survive almost intact. The reason is unusual: in 597 the Bishop of Agrigento, Gregorio delle Rape, consecrated the temple as the church of Saints Peter and Paul, walled in the colonnade, and kept the structure under continuous use. Nineteenth-century restoration removed the walls and returned the open Greek plan.
The Valley of the Temples is open year-round, with extended evening hours from spring through autumn that let visitors see the temples lit against the dark hillside. Tickets cover a 1,300-hectare archaeological park; the Concordia, Juno, and Heracles temples stand along a single ridge walk of about two kilometres. Spring is the prized season: the Mandorlo in Fiore festival, first held in 1934, marks the almond blossom in early February and fills the valley with white flower against warm stone. Agrigento Centrale station is about three kilometres uphill from the park entrance; a regular city bus runs between them.