— two Caravaggios in a side chapel, the morning light coming in.
“A 15th-century Augustinian church just inside the Porta del Popolo, the old north gate of Rome. The Cerasi Chapel holds two Caravaggio paintings from 1601, the Crucifixion of Saint Peter and the Conversion of Saint Paul, hung as a pair. Across the transept the Chigi Chapel carries Raphael's design, with Bernini's sculptures added a century later. The place is small, layered, and quiet between Mass times.
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Santa Maria del Popolo stands on the north side of the Piazza del Popolo, at the historic entrance to Rome from the Via Flaminia. The church was rebuilt in its current form between 1472 and 1477 under Pope Sixtus IV, replacing an earlier chapel founded in 1099. It is run by the Augustinian Order. The interior carries work by Pinturicchio, Raphael, Caravaggio, Bernini, Bramante, and Sansovino across roughly four centuries of additions. The Italian Ministry of Culture lists it among the most important Renaissance and Baroque churches in the city.
The two Caravaggio paintings in the Cerasi Chapel were commissioned by Monsignor Tiberio Cerasi in September 1600 and installed in 1601. The Crucifixion of Saint Peter and the Conversion of Saint Paul are oil on canvas, each roughly 230 by 175 centimetres. Annibale Carracci's Assumption of the Virgin hangs on the altar wall between them. The Chigi Chapel, designed by Raphael for the banker Agostino Chigi around 1513, holds Bernini's sculptures of Daniel and Habakkuk, added under Pope Alexander VII in the 1650s, layered onto Raphael's original scheme.
The church is generally open from 7:30 a.m. to noon and again from 4 to 7 p.m., with shorter Sunday hours, and entry is free. A coin-fed light in the Cerasi Chapel briefly illuminates the Caravaggios, which is the only way to see them properly. Photography without flash is permitted in most of the church. The Metro A line stops at Flaminio, a one-minute walk through the gate. Mornings are quieter than late afternoon, when tour groups loop in from the Piazza del Popolo.