— — the chains, and the Moses no one finished.
“A fifth-century basilica on the Oppian Hill, a few minutes' walk above the Colosseum. It holds two unrelated things people come for: the chains of Saint Peter, sealed beneath the high altar, and Michelangelo's Moses, the centrepiece of a tomb for Pope Julius II that was meant to be the largest in Christendom and ended up against the south transept wall.
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The Basilica di San Pietro in Vincoli stands on the Oppian Hill in Rome's Monti district, a short climb above the Colosseum. It was founded in the 430s under Empress Licinia Eudoxia to house the chains said to have bound Saint Peter in Jerusalem and again in Rome. The chains are kept in a reliquary beneath the high altar. The basilica was rebuilt under Pope Sixtus IV in the 1470s and again under Pope Julius II in the early sixteenth century. It serves today as a titular church, attached to the Pontifical Oriental Institute.
The basilica's draw, for most visitors, is Michelangelo's Moses, carved in Carrara marble between 1513 and 1515 for the tomb of Pope Julius II. The horns on Moses's head come from a Vulgate translation of Exodus 34, where Jerome rendered the Hebrew karan as cornuta. The tomb was planned with forty figures and never finished; Moses sits flanked by Rachel and Leah against the south transept wall. Vasari called the Moses the work that earned Michelangelo immortality among the living.
San Pietro in Vincoli sits a five-minute walk from the Colosseum, reached up the Salita dei Borgia and along Via di San Francesco di Paola. The nearest Metro stop is Cavour on Line B. Entrance is free; modest dress is expected. The basilica is generally open from morning through early afternoon and again in the late afternoon, closing through the long midday break. The chains are visible in the confessio beneath the high altar; the Moses sits to the right of the nave as you enter.