— — the chapel where Caravaggio first painted with light.
“The French national church in Rome, finished in 1589, with a quiet travertine façade that gives no warning. Inside, past the side altars, the Contarelli Chapel holds three Caravaggio paintings of Saint Matthew. The Calling is on the left wall. A shaft of light cuts the room and a tax collector looks up. People drop a coin in the lighting box and stand without speaking. Doors close at lunch.
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San Luigi dei Francesi is the national church of France in Rome, on the small Piazza di San Luigi dei Francesi between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. Construction began in 1518 under Jean de Chenevière and was completed in 1589 to a façade by Giacomo della Porta. It is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, Saint Denis of Paris, and King Louis IX of France. The church belongs to the French state and is administered by the Pieux Établissements de la France à Rome et à Lorette.
The Contarelli Chapel, the fifth on the left, holds three canvases that Caravaggio painted between 1599 and 1600 on the life of Saint Matthew: The Calling, The Inspiration, and The Martyrdom. They were his first major public commission and changed European painting. A coin-operated lamp lights the chapel for about a minute at a time. The Calling places a shaft of Roman afternoon light across the room and turns a tax collector's table into a question.
Entry is free. The church is generally open from about 9:30 in the morning until 12:45, then again from 2:30 until 6:30, with shorter hours on Sunday afternoon and closures during Mass. The Contarelli Chapel is at the far end of the left aisle. A few one-euro coins for the lamp are worth bringing; the lighting cycles are short. The nearest landmark for navigation is Piazza Navona, 200 metres to the west.