— — a city that keeps every century at once.
“The capital of Italy and, for two thousand years before that, the capital of an empire that gave the West its roads and its laws. Seven hills, one river, a skyline of domes and umbrella pines. The Pantheon's oculus still opens to the rain; the Colosseum still counts its arches in late-afternoon light. Every layer of city sits on the one before it.
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Rome sits on the Tiber River in the Lazio region of central Italy, about twenty-four kilometers inland from the Tyrrhenian Sea. The historic center, on the seven hills of the left bank, has been continuously inhabited since the eighth century BC. The city covers 1,285 square kilometers and holds about 2.8 million residents, with over four million in the metropolitan area. Vatican City, the seat of the Catholic Church, lies within the city as a separate sovereign state. The historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Rome is built in travertine, tuff, brick, and marble, and rebuilt in each. The Colosseum's outer arches use travertine from quarries near Tivoli, finished in AD 80 under Titus. The Pantheon, completed under Hadrian around AD 126, holds the world's largest unreinforced concrete dome at 43.3 meters across. Baroque Rome, from Bernini's colonnade at St. Peter's to the Trevi Fountain finished in 1762, layers softer Carrara marble over the older substructure. The eras do not replace one another so much as wear through.
The historic center is walkable in a long day, but Rome rewards a slower pace. The Vatican Museums require timed tickets and queue by 8 a.m. in summer. The Colosseum, Roman Forum, and Palatine share a combined ticket valid for twenty-four hours. The Pantheon, free until 2023, now requires a small entry fee. Late afternoon, after the day-trip coaches leave, the city becomes quieter; Trastevere and the Aventine settle into evening light. August thins out as Italians leave for the coast.