— — a city that has been every empire and stayed itself.
“Palermo holds the curve of the Conca d'Oro between Monte Pellegrino and the sea. Phoenicians founded it. Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans each took a turn, and every one of them left a doorway. The old markets at Vucciria and Ballarò still open before dawn. The Cappella Palatina up the hill still gleams in twelve centuries of mosaic. Lemon trees in courtyards. Coffee at the corner.
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Palermo is the capital of Sicily and Italy's fifth-largest city, with about 630,000 residents in the comune and roughly 1.2 million in the metropolitan area. The city sits on the Tyrrhenian coast at the foot of Monte Pellegrino, on a plain the Arabs called the Conca d'Oro, the Golden Shell, for its citrus groves. Phoenician traders founded a settlement here around 734 BC. Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab, Norman, Hohenstaufen, Aragonese, and Bourbon rulers followed, and the layered street grid still shows their hands.
Nine Arab-Norman buildings in and around Palermo were inscribed together as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015. The Cattedrale di Palermo combines a twelfth-century Norman shell with later Gothic, Catalan, and Neoclassical additions. The Cappella Palatina, inside the Palazzo dei Normanni, holds roughly 6,500 square metres of Byzantine gold mosaic finished around 1140 under Roger II. The Quattro Canti is the Baroque crossing at the centre of the old grid. Doors here are taller than they need to be, and the staircases are wider.
The two great daily markets, Ballarò and Vucciria, open before dawn and slow down by mid-afternoon. Ballarò in Albergheria has run continuously for about a thousand years and is the larger and louder of the two. The Cappella Palatina inside the Palazzo dei Normanni is open most mornings; the ticket also covers the royal apartments and the gardens. The Cattedrale is free to enter; the roof terrace and the crypt require a small fee. August is hot and quiet; April and October are the kind months.