— — a city that lives outdoors.
“Naples sits on a bay the volcano made, on the southern half of the Italian peninsula. The old centre, Spaccanapoli, runs as a single straight cut through stone buildings five storeys tall. From the Vomero hill the bay opens south to Capri and east to the cone of Vesuvius. The pizza is older than the country it is in.
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Naples is the capital of the Campania region and the third-largest city in Italy by population, with about 909,000 inside the comune and roughly 3 million across the metropolitan area. It sits on the northern arc of the Bay of Naples, on the western edge of the Italian peninsula. The volcano Vesuvius rises 1,281 metres to the east, less than fifteen kilometres from the historic centre. The centro storico is a UNESCO World Heritage site, inscribed in 1995 for one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban cores in Europe.
The old city is built from tuff, the soft yellow volcanic rock quarried from the hills around Naples and shaped easily with a hand saw. Most of the buildings in the centro storico stand on quarried-out hollows; the city sits above roughly 750 kilometres of mapped subterranean tunnels and cisterns used variously as Greek aqueducts, Roman storage, wartime shelters, and rubbish dumps. The Castel dell'Ovo on its small islet uses denser tuff blocks salvaged from earlier Roman villas on the same rock.
The historic centre is best on foot. Spaccanapoli, the dead-straight street whose name means Naples-splitter, runs east-west through the medieval quarter and connects the Duomo to the Quartieri Spagnoli. Pizzerias on Via dei Tribunali, including L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele (open since 1870) and Sorbillo, serve the Neapolitan style protected as a UNESCO intangible heritage in 2017. The funicular from Montesanto reaches the Vomero in eight minutes, with the bay framed on the way up.