— — a city that had to be built twice.
“The city at the top of Sicily, where the strait narrows to three kilometres and the ferries cross all day to the mainland. The 1908 earthquake took almost everything, and what stands now was rebuilt in the decades after. At noon the astronomical clock on the cathedral tower runs through its figures while the pigeons lift off the piazza.
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Messina sits at the northeast tip of Sicily, facing Calabria across a three-kilometre strait. The Greek settlers who founded it in the eighth century BC called it Zancle, for the sickle shape of its harbour. The morning of 28 December 1908, a magnitude 7.1 earthquake and the tsunami that followed killed roughly eighty thousand people and levelled most of the city. The present grid was laid out in the rebuild, and the cathedral square, with its restored Duomo and the largest astronomical clock in the world, remains the centre. The metropolitan area holds around two hundred thirty thousand.
The Duomo di Messina was consecrated in 1197 under the Normans, destroyed in the 1908 earthquake, rebuilt, burned in the 1943 Allied bombing, and rebuilt again. Its campanile carries an astronomical clock installed in 1933 by the Ungerer brothers of Strasbourg, widely said to be the largest mechanical clock in the world. At noon each day a gilded lion roars, a rooster crows, and the figures of Dina and Clarenza strike the bell. The Fountain of Orion, carved by Giovanni Angelo Montorsoli in 1547, still stands in the piazza outside.
The Strait of Messina is the channel Homer wrote as Scylla and Charybdis, the rock and the whirlpool that menaced Odysseus. The real currents are real: the tide reverses every six hours, and the meeting of the Tyrrhenian and Ionian seas throws up standing eddies the local fishermen call bastardi. Swordfish are still hunted from passerelle, the tall-masted boats with a long bow walkway, between April and August. The car ferries to Villa San Giovanni run from the Rada San Francesco terminal roughly every forty minutes.