— — a stone city stacked against the sea.
“A port pressed up against the mountains, with a medieval centre that runs uphill in shadow. The caruggi are narrower than the buildings are tall; the harbour smells of basil and salt. La Lanterna has marked the entrance since 1543. Walk far enough up any alley and the city opens into a piazza with a fountain nobody is sitting near.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Genoa stretches thirty kilometres along the Ligurian coast where the Apennines meet the sea. The historic centre, one of the largest in Europe at about 113 hectares, climbs the slope from the old port through a dense weave of caruggi, the narrow alleys that hold the city together. UNESCO inscribed the Strade Nuove and the system of forty-two Palazzi dei Rolli in 2006 for their role as the Republic of Genoa's diplomatic guesthouses from the sixteenth century. The city proper holds about 560,000 residents; the port remains the largest in Italy by container tonnage.
Black slate and white marble alternate on the facades of the Palazzi dei Rolli along Via Garibaldi and Via Balbi, a pattern the Genoese borrowed from their cathedral. San Lorenzo, begun in the twelfth century, carries the same banded stripes across the Romanesque-Gothic facade and holds a British shell from 1941 that failed to detonate. La Lanterna, the city's lighthouse, was rebuilt in 1543 to 77 metres and remained the world's tallest until the nineteenth century. Stone runs through the place the way water runs through Venice.
Trains arrive at Piazza Principe from Milan in ninety minutes and from Nice in three hours. The Aquarium and the Porto Antico, redesigned by Renzo Piano for the 1992 Columbus quincentenary, sit a ten-minute walk east. Most of the Rolli palaces open one weekend each May during the Rolli Days; the rest of the year, Palazzo Rosso, Palazzo Bianco, and Palazzo Doria-Tursi hold the municipal collections. Focaccia is sold by weight in the morning; pesto comes with trenette or trofie.