
— where the afternoon comes down through the glass.
“A glass-domed arcade in the middle of Naples, opened in 1890, in the years the city was tearing through its oldest and most crowded quarter to let in light and air. Four marble halls meet under a dome of iron and glass, and by mid-morning the whole floor goes bright. At the centre, a compass rose and the twelve signs of the zodiac are set into the marble; people still stop to find their own sign and stand on it. The San Carlo opera house sits directly across the street. Most days the Galleria is a shortcut and a meeting place at once, all footsteps and coffee under the light.

Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Each tile ships in a kraft box, tied with cream ribbon, with a handwritten note from the studio if you'd like to add one.
Three or five different vistas, hung together — a chapter of places you've been, or want to go.
The Galleria Umberto I sits on Via Toledo in central Naples, directly opposite the Teatro San Carlo opera house and a short walk from the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito. It was built between 1887 and 1890 as part of the risanamento, the public-health rebuilding of Naples that followed the cholera epidemic of 1884 and cleared the dense lower city to bring in light, air, and clean water. Emanuele Rocco designed it in the Stile Umbertino and named it for Umberto I, then King of Italy. The plan is a cross of four arcaded halls that meet beneath a central glass dome, a form openly modelled on the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan.
The roof is the reason to look up. A glass dome braced by sixteen curved iron ribs rises about 57 metres at the tip of its spire, and through it the Neapolitan sun falls the length of all four halls. The structure belongs to the same family of nineteenth-century iron-and-glass arcades as the covered passages of Paris and the Milan galleria, an architecture built to roof a street in daylight while keeping out the weather. The engineering of the dome is usually credited to Paolo Boubee. Late morning is when the halls are brightest; by then the light has crossed the upper galleries and reaches the marble at the centre of the floor.
At the crossing of the four halls, set into the marble floor, is a polychrome compass rose marked OVEST, NORD, EST, SUD for the four exits, ringed by the twelve signs of the zodiac arranged like the petals of a flower. The current mosaic is younger than the building: it was laid in 1952 by the Venetian firm Padoan, replacing original flooring damaged during the Second World War. A local habit has grown up around it, that finding your own sign and standing on it will grant a wish, so there is almost always someone pausing mid-stride at the centre of the floor. Above it all hangs the same iron and glass.