— — the river before it knows it's a river.
“A small thread of water in the Pusteria valley, rising near San Candido and running east toward the Austrian border. The Drava begins here as a clear alpine stream the locals barely name. The Sextner Dolomites watch from the south. Within a few kilometres the water has crossed three languages and one country.
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The Drava, called Drau in German and Drava in Italian, rises near San Candido in the Pusteria valley of South Tyrol, at roughly 1,175 metres. From its Italian headwaters it runs east about 25 kilometres before crossing into East Tyrol, Austria. The full river is 749 kilometres long and joins the Danube near Osijek, Croatia. Inside Italy the Drava is a clear, narrow alpine stream framed by the Sextner Dolomites to the south and the Carnic Alps to the north.
Above San Candido the water runs cold and clear off the southern slopes of the Carnic Alps. The Italian segment carries little sediment, so the stream reads green against pale gravel rather than the milky turquoise of glacier-fed lakes further west. Snowmelt swells the channel from April through June. By late summer the flow is shallow enough that the riverbed shows through in long stretches. Brown trout hold in the deeper pools below the village bridges.
San Candido sits on the SS49 between Brunico and Lienz, with hourly trains on the Pusteria line from Fortezza. The Drava is most photogenic in late May and early June when meltwater is high. Cycle paths follow the river east to Lienz, a route of about 45 kilometres on dedicated trail. The village itself dates to a Benedictine foundation around 769. Most visitors here are passing through to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo trailheads further south.