— — a stadium gone back to grass.
“A long oval of open ground in the valley between the Palatine and the Aventine. For more than a thousand years this was the largest chariot-racing venue in the ancient world. Today it is a public park: a green ellipse held in the same shape, with the curved end excavated, the obelisks moved to other piazzas, and the Forum just beyond the trees. Late light catches the cypress on the slope.
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The valley between the Palatine and Aventine hills, just south of the Forum Romanum and the Colosseum. The track ran roughly 621 metres long and 118 metres across at its widest, the largest sporting venue in the Roman world. Livy credits the first laid-out track to King Tarquinius Priscus in the sixth century BCE; the marble seating took shape under Julius Caesar and was rebuilt by Trajan in 103 CE. Estimates of seated capacity range from 150,000 to a quarter of a million, drawing on Pliny and the Regionary Catalogues.
Most of the marble is gone. After the last games held by Totila in 549 CE, the seating tiers were quarried for nearly a millennium of building elsewhere in Rome. The eastern curved end, the sphendone, still shows the brick foundations of the Severan rebuilding and the imperial box on the Palatine side. The two obelisks that once stood on the central spina now mark other piazzas: the Flaminio obelisk of Ramses II in Piazza del Popolo, and the Lateran obelisk of Thutmose III at San Giovanni in Laterano.
The site is a free, open public park with no ticket and no gate, accessible at all hours. The Metro stop Circo Massimo on Line B sits at the north-west corner; the Colosseum is a ten-minute walk north. A small ticketed archaeological area at the eastern curve, the Circo Massimo Experience, offers an augmented-reality reconstruction of the original stadium for about twelve euros. The grass holds large summer concerts and the closing rally of the Rome Marathon. Early morning and the hour before sunset are the best times for the long view.