— — a city built from the lava.
“Sicily's second city, on the Ionian coast under Mount Etna. After the 1693 earthquake levelled the old town, the architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini led a Baroque rebuild in dark volcanic stone. The Piazza del Duomo holds u Liotru, the basalt elephant the city took as its emblem. The fish market opens before dawn behind the cathedral.
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Catania sits on the eastern coast of Sicily, on a coastal plain at the foot of Mount Etna, the highest active volcano in continental Europe at roughly 3,357 metres. The historic centre was rebuilt in late Baroque after the 1693 Val di Noto earthquake destroyed it; the architect Giovanni Battista Vaccarini led the work through the early eighteenth century, using the dark basalt the volcano had already given the land. UNESCO inscribed the centre in 2002 as one of the Late Baroque Towns of Val di Noto.
Catania is built in two colours: the black of Etna's basalt and the warm cream of Syracusan limestone. Vaccarini set the contrast deliberately, pairing dark base courses with carved pale upper storeys across the Piazza del Duomo. The Fontana dell'Elefante in the centre of the square is a single block of Roman-era basalt, the elephant the locals call u Liotru, set in 1736 with an Egyptian obelisk on its back. Much of the surrounding pavement is laid in the same volcanic stone, polished by three centuries of footsteps.
The city revolves around the Festa di Sant'Agata, the February festival for the patron saint that locals say is the largest religious procession in Europe after Holy Week in Seville. From the third through the fifth of February, white-tunicked devotees draw the silver fercolo of Saint Agatha through the streets across two nights without sleep. The route covers roughly fifteen kilometres. The city closes around the procession, candles burn in every window of the old centre, and the bars on Via Etnea stay open until dawn.