— — a city of the dead that outlived the city above.
“Beneath the suburbs along the Via Appia, hundreds of kilometres of narrow galleries run on three or four levels through the soft tufa rock. The early Christians of Rome buried their dead here from the second century onward. The light underground is always the same, a low electric glow half a metre above the floor, picking out fish, doves, and the chi-rho cut in plaster two thousand years ago.
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The Catacombs of Rome are a network of underground burial galleries dug into the soft volcanic tufa beneath the city's outer suburbs, primarily along the ancient consular roads south and east. They were used from roughly the second through the fifth century, mostly by Christian and Jewish communities. The Pontifical Commission for Sacred Archaeology oversees about sixty known catacombs. Five are regularly open to the public: San Callisto, San Sebastiano, Domitilla, Priscilla, and Sant'Agnese. Estimates of total gallery length range above 150 kilometres on multiple stacked levels reaching as deep as 20 metres.
Roman law forbade burial inside the city walls, so the catacombs were cut into estates outside the pomerium, mostly along the Via Appia Antica and the Via Salaria. Diggers called fossores carved the galleries by hand into the tufa, opening rectangular niches called loculi along the walls and small family chambers called cubicula at intervals. The Catacomb of San Callisto, established around 150 CE, became the official cemetery of the Roman Church and holds the tombs of nine third-century popes. The earliest surviving Christian art is painted on these walls: the Good Shepherd, orant figures, the fish.
Five catacombs are regularly open to visitors, each entered through a basilica or a quiet road off the Via Appia. San Callisto and San Sebastiano sit close together on the Appia Antica and can be combined in a morning. Domitilla and Priscilla are smaller and more frescoed. Tours run only with an authorised guide, last about thirty to forty minutes, and follow a fixed route lit at low level. Most sites close one day a week, which varies by location. The temperature underground stays around 15 degrees Celsius year round; a light jacket helps.