— — gold tesserae holding a sixth-century afternoon.
“An octagonal Byzantine church in Ravenna, consecrated in 547 under Bishop Maximian and paid for by the banker Julianus Argentarius. Inside, the apse mosaics still hold Justinian and Theodora in attendant procession, and the green and gold ceiling has not dimmed in fifteen hundred years. Light enters the upper windows and rests on the marble inlays below — the same light Galla Placidia would have known.
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The Basilica of San Vitale stands in the centre of Ravenna, the Byzantine capital of the Western Roman Empire after 540. Construction began under Bishop Ecclesius around 526 and the church was consecrated in 547 by Bishop Maximian. Its plan is an octagon within an octagon, an Eastern form rare in the Latin West, with a presbytery and apse pushed out on the east. The donor, the banker Julianus Argentarius, also funded Sant'Apollinare in Classe a few kilometres south. UNESCO inscribed San Vitale and seven other early Christian monuments of Ravenna as a World Heritage Site in 1996.
The basilica's mosaics cover roughly two hundred square metres of the presbytery and apse, set in gold-leaf glass tesserae backed with a thin sheet of metal to throw light back into the room. The two famous panels face each other across the chancel: the emperor Justinian with his attendants and Bishop Maximian on the north wall, the empress Theodora with her ladies on the south. The figures are slightly tipped forward, the gold backgrounds undimmed since the sixth century. Morning light from the east windows catches the apse first; the imperial panels read best in the early afternoon.
The basilica is open daily and is reached on foot from Ravenna's main railway station in about fifteen minutes. A single combined ticket covers San Vitale, the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia next door, the Archiepiscopal Museum, the Neonian Baptistery and Sant'Apollinare Nuovo. The mausoleum admits only a small group at a time, so the morning slot tends to be quieter. Photography without flash is permitted. The basilica is still consecrated and occasionally closes for Mass. Spring and autumn are easier on the light and on the crowds than midsummer.