— — the wall the painter taught to speak.
“Two churches stacked on a hillside above the Spoleto valley, the lower built into the slope, the upper rising over it in pale Subasio limestone. Inside, Giotto's life of Francis carries the upper nave around in twenty-eight panels, and the body of the saint rests in the crypt beneath both. The pilgrim road from the train station climbs slowly. The bells, when they go, carry far.
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The Basilica of San Francesco d'Assisi stands at the western edge of Assisi, a hill town in the Umbrian province of Perugia, about 175 kilometres north of Rome. Construction began in 1228, two years after the death of Francis, and the upper basilica was consecrated in 1253. The building is mother church of the Conventual Franciscans and one of the most important pilgrimage sites in Catholic Christendom. UNESCO inscribed the basilica and other Franciscan sites of Assisi as World Heritage in 2000, citing its role in the development of Italian art.
The basilica is built of pink and white limestone quarried from Monte Subasio, the mountain rising directly behind the town. Two churches share one footprint: the Lower Basilica, vaulted low and dim, holding the tomb of Francis in a crypt rediscovered in 1818; and the Upper Basilica, with a single tall nave whose Gothic vaulting was the first of its kind in central Italy. The 1997 Umbrian earthquake brought down sections of the upper vault; the restoration, completed in 1999, returned the Cimabue and Giotto cycles to the wall.
The basilica is open to pilgrims and visitors year-round, generally 06:00 to 18:50 in the upper church and somewhat shorter hours in the lower, with no admission charge. Modest dress is required and photography is not permitted inside. The complex includes the Sacro Convento, a working friary since the thirteenth century. Most visitors arrive from Santa Maria degli Angeli station, four kilometres downhill, by bus or on foot up the medieval pilgrim road. The Feast of Saint Francis falls on the fourth of October.