— — a church built on a church built on a Roman house.
“The basilica three streets from the Colosseum that goes down instead of up. The upper church is twelfth-century, gilded and apsed. A staircase off the side aisle drops to a fourth-century basilica with faded frescoes, then again to a first-century Mithraeum where water still runs through Roman drains. The Irish Dominicans have kept the keys since 1667.
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The Basilica of San Clemente al Laterano sits on Via Labicana in Rome's Monti rione, about 300 metres east of the Colosseum and 700 metres from the Lateran. The current upper basilica was built around 1100, after the Norman sack of 1084 damaged the earlier structure. Below it lies a fourth-century basilica converted from a Roman aristocrat's house, and beneath that a first-century Mithraeum and an alley of imperial-era buildings. Pope Clement XI granted the complex to the Irish Dominicans in 1667; they have administered it since.
The upper nave is divided by ancient Ionic and Corinthian columns reused from earlier Roman buildings, a common Roman practice known as spolia. The twelfth-century apse mosaic shows the Cross as a vine, with twelve doves for the apostles, set against gold tesserae. The Cosmati pavement is laid in geometric patterns of recycled porphyry and serpentine. The schola cantorum at the centre of the nave was lifted intact from the fourth-century basilica below and reinstalled in the new one.
The basilica stands at Via Labicana 95, a ten-minute walk from the Colosseo Metro on Line B. The upper church is open daily without charge for prayer and viewing. Access to the lower basilica and the Mithraeum requires a timed ticket, currently 10 euro, sold at the gift shop just inside the side door. The lower levels are reached by a stone staircase and are about 18 metres below street level; the air is noticeably cooler and damp.