— — the church the Romans almost forgot.
“The Aventine keeps its quiet. Up the hill from the Circus Maximus, past the orange garden, the brick face of Santa Sabina opens onto a fifth-century nave that has been holding the same light since 432. Twenty-four matched Corinthian columns, a wooden door carved with one of the earliest images of the Crucifixion, and the small keyhole at the priory across the way that frames the dome of Saint Peter's like a held breath.
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The Basilica of Santa Sabina all'Aventino stands on the Aventine Hill in Rome, the lowest of the city's seven hills along the Tiber. It was built between 422 and 432 under Pope Celestine I, funded by Peter of Illyria, a priest from Dalmatia. The church has been the mother church of the Order of Preachers, the Dominicans, since Pope Honorius III gave it to Saint Dominic in 1219. It is the station church for Ash Wednesday in the Roman liturgical calendar, and the papal Ash Wednesday procession still ends here.
The interior survives as one of the cleanest examples of early Christian basilica architecture in Rome. Twenty-four fluted Corinthian columns of Proconnesian marble, salvaged from a nearby Roman temple, line the nave in a matched arcade about 30 metres long. Selective sixteenth-century alterations were stripped back by Antonio Muñoz between 1914 and 1919, returning the church close to its fifth-century plan. The carved cypress-wood doors at the entrance date to roughly 430 and include one of the earliest surviving depictions of the Crucifixion of Christ in Christian art.
The basilica sits at Piazza Pietro d'Illiria 1 on the Aventine, a fifteen-minute walk uphill from the Circo Massimo metro station on Line B. Entry is free, with hours generally from 08:15 to 12:30 and 15:30 to 18:00 daily, shortened during Mass. The adjoining Dominican priory is private. A few steps away, the Knights of Malta keyhole at the Villa del Priorato di Malta frames a long perspective through a hedge tunnel that ends on the dome of Saint Peter's Basilica across the city.