— — a road that hangs above the sea.
“The fifty kilometres of cliff coast south of Naples, where the towns hold on like bright laundry pinned to the rock. Positano falls toward the water. Ravello holds the high ground above Atrani. The Amalfitana road, opened in 1853, traces the shoreline in three thousand turns between Vietri sul Mare and Positano.
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The Costiera Amalfitana runs about fifty kilometres along the southern flank of the Sorrentine Peninsula in the province of Salerno, Campania. UNESCO inscribed the coast as a World Heritage Site in 1997, citing the integration of terraced agriculture and Mediterranean architecture. The Cathedral of Sant'Andrea in Amalfi dates to the ninth century and holds relics of the apostle Andrew, brought from Constantinople in 1208. State Road 163, the Amalfitana, opened in 1853 and remains the only continuous coastal road between Vietri sul Mare and Positano.
The towns sit on Mesozoic limestone the Tyrrhenian has been cutting for millions of years. Positano climbs nearly four hundred metres from the harbour to the upper road in a stack of pastel facades and ceramic-domed churches. Ravello, three hundred and sixty-five metres above sea level, holds the Villa Rufolo, whose terraced gardens informed Wagner's stage set for the second act of Parsifal in 1880. The lemon terraces above Minori and Maiori are pre-Roman in origin and still produce the Sfusato Amalfitano, a protected designation since 2001.
The coast faces south and west, so the late afternoon sun rakes across the cliffs and turns the limestone the colour of lemon peel. Photographers gather above Praiano at the Chiesa di San Gennaro for the half hour before sunset, when Positano is fully lit and the sea behind it has gone indigo. The early summer months, May and June, bring the steadiest weather, before the August crowds and the September thunderstorms that roll off the Tyrrhenian Sea.