— — the white house the village stopped naming.
“A small farmhouse on the slope above Cefalù, on the Tyrrhenian coast of Sicily. Aleister Crowley took the lease in the spring of 1920 and called it the Abbey of Thelema; Mussolini's government expelled him in 1923. The painted rooms inside have mostly gone to whitewash and weather. From the road below it reads as another farmhouse on the hill, which is most of what it is now.
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The house sits on the lower slopes of the hill behind Cefalù, a fishing town on the Tyrrhenian coast of Sicily roughly seventy kilometres east of Palermo. Aleister Crowley arrived in April 1920 and named the small rented villa the Abbey of Thelema after François Rabelais's fictional abbey. The community he assembled there lasted about three years before Mussolini ordered his expulsion in April 1923. The Madonie mountains rise inland; the Norman cathedral begun in 1131 sits on the headland below.
The interior walls were painted by Crowley himself, including a room he called the Chamber of Nightmares. After his expulsion the local authorities whitewashed the murals. In 1955 the American filmmaker Kenneth Anger and the sexologist Alfred Kinsey visited and partially uncovered the paintings, photographing what remained. Decades of damp and abandonment have done the rest of the work. What survives now is more outline than image: pigment under chalk under more chalk, on a thick lime plaster that holds the sea air.
The building is private property and not part of any tourist circuit. There is no signage, no caretaker, no posted hours. Cefalù itself is the reason most visitors come to this stretch of coast: the cathedral, the long shallow beach, the medieval lanes below the Rocca. The house above the town is a footnote on a few walking maps and a quiet pilgrimage for the small number of readers who go looking for it. Local feeling about its history is mixed and largely indifferent.