— — the land the rain forgot to cross.
“The Judaean Desert begins just east of Jerusalem and falls, in only a few dozen kilometres, from the limestone ridge of the central highlands down to the lowest point on earth. It is a rain-shadow country: the clouds drop their water on the Mediterranean side, and the eastern slope keeps the dryness. The colour is bone and ochre and, after a flash flood, dark with wet stone. Bedouin paths trace the wadis. Monasteries cling to the cliffs. The light in the late afternoon turns the whole slope the colour of fired clay.
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The Judaean Desert is a small rain-shadow desert covering roughly 1,500 square kilometres east of the Judaean Mountains, between Jerusalem and the western shore of the Dead Sea. Elevations fall from around 1,000 metres on the highland ridge to 430 metres below sea level at the Dead Sea, the lowest land point on earth. The dryness is structural: the Mediterranean weather systems drop most of their moisture as they rise over the highlands, and the eastern slope receives only fifty to a hundred millimetres of rain a year. The land is cut by deep wadis running east.
The country is built of Cretaceous and Eocene limestones and chalks, soft enough that wadis cut into them quickly and hard enough to hold the cliffs above the Dead Sea. The fortress of Masada stands on a flat-topped massif rising about 450 metres above the eastern shore; Herod the Great built his palace complex there in the first century BCE. Mar Saba, the Greek Orthodox monastery founded by Saint Sabbas in 483 CE, clings to the Kidron gorge and has been continuously inhabited for more than 1,500 years. The caves at Qumran, in the same limestone, held the Dead Sea Scrolls.
Most travellers reach the desert from Jerusalem on Route 1, descending through the Wadi Qelt and onward to Jericho or south along Route 90 along the Dead Sea shore. Ein Gedi Nature Reserve, about 35 kilometres south of Qumran, holds spring-fed pools at the foot of the cliffs and is open daily; ibex and rock hyrax are common at the lower springs. Masada is reached by cable car or by the Snake Path from the eastern base. Summer temperatures regularly exceed 40 degrees Celsius, and winter rain, when it comes, can produce flash floods in the wadis within minutes.