— — a port that has changed hands and kept its stone.
“Acre sits on a small headland north of Haifa, where the sea wall holds against a long Mediterranean swell. The old city is mostly Ottoman above and Crusader below — a Hospitaller fortress buried under centuries of Mamluk and Turkish building. The khans by the port still smell of cardamom and fish. From the ramparts at dusk the bay turns slate-green, and the muezzin and the church bell answer each other across the water.
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Acre, known in Hebrew as Akko and in Arabic as Akka, sits on a small headland on the northern shore of the Bay of Haifa, about fourteen kilometres north of Haifa itself. The site has been continuously inhabited for at least four thousand years, with Bronze Age strata at Tel Akko just east of the old city. The modern population is roughly 50,000, mixed Jewish and Arab. The old city was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001 for the unusual preservation of its medieval Crusader town beneath an intact Ottoman walled city.
Acre fell to the Crusaders in 1104 and became, after the loss of Jerusalem in 1187, the capital of the Latin Kingdom for almost a century. The Knights Hospitaller built a vast complex beneath what is now the Ottoman old city — refectories, dormitories, and an enormous vaulted hall, all preserved largely because the Mamluks filled them with rubble after the siege of 1291 and the Ottomans built directly on top. The most prominent later building is the Al-Jazzar Mosque, completed in 1781 under Pasha Ahmad al-Jazzar, with its pale green dome above the old market.
Acre still works as a port. Small fishing boats put out from the harbour every morning and tie up along the southern wall in the late afternoon, and the khans inland — Khan al-Umdan with its clock tower, Khan al-Shawarda, Khan al-Faranj — still hold a working market for fish, spice, and produce. The city is mixed Jewish and Arab in a way unusual even by Israeli standards, with shared neighbourhoods running back from the port. At dusk from the sea wall, with the muezzin from Al-Jazzar and the bells from St John, the harbour holds both at once.