
— — a country wide enough for the wind.
“The great grass plain of County Kildare, west of Dublin. Five thousand acres of treeless common, kept open by horses and sheep since before anyone wrote it down. The Curragh Racecourse sits at the eastern edge; the rest is gallops and old roads. There is a folk song that gives the place its other life, sung by Christy Moore and Andy Irvine, in a register slow enough to match the country. The wind here has nothing to break it. On a grey morning, hoofbeats carry before the horses come into sight.

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The Curragh is a flat grass plain of roughly 5,000 acres in County Kildare, about 50 kilometres southwest of Dublin. The name comes from the Irish *Cuirreach*, meaning a place of running. It is common land, one of the largest tracts of unenclosed common in Europe, grazed by sheep with ancient rights and crossed by working gallops where thoroughbreds are trained for the racing yards at Newbridge and Kildare town. The Curragh Racecourse sits at its eastern edge and has hosted racing in a continuous form since at least the 18th century, though Irish chronicles record horse contests on the plain a thousand years earlier.
What makes the Curragh feel unlike anywhere else in Ireland is the absence: no hedgerows, no walled fields, no trees of any consequence. The plain holds roughly 5,000 acres of open grass sloping gently across the central plain of Ireland. Geologists trace its flatness to a sheet of glacial outwash laid down at the end of the last ice age, when meltwater spread sand and gravel across what is now the middle of the country. Wind crosses the Curragh without a windbreak from the Wicklow Mountains rising to the east or the Slieve Bloom range to the west, which is part of why the plain has remained, against every Irish instinct toward enclosure, a commons.
The Curragh's year is shaped by horses. The Curragh Racecourse hosts five Irish Classics: the Irish 2,000 Guineas and Irish 1,000 Guineas in May, the Irish Derby in late June, the Irish Oaks in July, and the Irish St Leger in September, drawing thoroughbreds and crowds from across Europe. Outside race days the plain belongs to the gallops, where hundreds of thoroughbreds train from yards along its margin. The place has another year that runs in slower time. The folk song *The Curragh of Kildare*, also called *Winter It Is Past*, was set into print by Robert Burns in the 18th century and carried into modern record by Christy Moore and Andy Irvine. The song's first line is winter; the country in it is here.