— a citadel on a hill of fire.
“A city on a mound that has been lived on for five thousand years. The citadel rises above the Khasa River and the streets of the old town. Beyond the edges lies Baba Gurgur, the oil field where a fire has burned in the open ground for as long as anyone has measured. Kurdish, Arab, Turkmen, and Assyrian families have all held this place.
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Kirkuk lies in northern Iraq about 240 kilometres north of Baghdad, on a plain between the Lesser Zab and the Diyala rivers where the foothills of the Zagros begin to lift. The Khasa River cuts through the centre. The Kirkuk Governorate holds roughly one and a half million people and the city itself somewhere above a million, distributed among Kurdish, Arab, Turkmen, and Assyrian communities. The city has been the disputed administrative seat between the federal Iraqi government and the Kurdistan Region since 2003, a status still unsettled.
The Kirkuk Citadel sits on an artificial mound roughly 850 metres long and 500 wide, raised over more than five thousand years of continuous occupation; archaeological surveys place the earliest layers around 3000 BC. Successive Assyrian, Median, Achaemenid, Sasanian, Abbasid, and Ottoman quarters lie beneath the visible buildings, which include the Red Mosque, the tomb traditionally identified as that of the Prophet Daniel, and the Ulu Cami. A restoration programme led by the State Board of Antiquities and Heritage has been underway since the 2010s.
At Baba Gurgur, about 16 kilometres northwest of the city, natural gas seeping from a fracture in the surface has burned continuously for thousands of years; Herodotus and later Plutarch both noted fires in this part of Mesopotamia. Drillers struck the field in October 1927, producing the first commercial oil in Iraq and one of the largest single discoveries of its era. The flares from the field still light the night sky over the western plain, visible from the citadel walls on a clear evening.