— — a desert city the wind keeps shaping.
“A high desert city in southeastern Iran, near the corner where Iran, Pakistan, and Afghanistan meet. The streets read low and pale against a horizon of broken ranges. The Makki mosque, the largest Sunni mosque in the country, holds the south side of the city with two minarets visible across the plain. The wind comes in long unbroken stretches, and the light at the end of the day turns the dust pink.
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Zahedan is the capital of Sistan and Baluchestan Province, southeastern Iran, and sits at about 1,370 metres on the high desert plateau, roughly 40 kilometres from the Pakistan border at Mirjaveh. Its population is about 590,000, predominantly Baluch and Sunni, with smaller Persian, Brahui, and Sistani communities. The modern city took its present form after 1918, when the Iranian government renamed the small settlement of Dozdab and rebuilt it as the regional seat. A railway from British Quetta had reached the area around 1920.
Zahedan sits in a cold-arid desert climate. Annual rainfall averages about 80 millimetres, summer highs run regularly above 38°C, and winter nights drop below freezing on the plateau. The Levar, the so-called *120-day wind* of Sistan, blows in from late May through September with sustained speeds that have been measured above 100 kilometres per hour. The dust is fine and persistent. The Taftan stratovolcano, 4,050 metres high, rises about 100 kilometres south of the city and shapes the southern horizon on clear mornings.
The Makki Grand Mosque, finished in its present form in 2008 and expanded since, is the largest Sunni mosque in Iran and the seat of the Sunni Baluch community's religious leadership under Mowlavi Abdolhamid. The prayer hall accommodates about 60,000 worshippers, and the two main minarets rise above 50 metres. The complex includes the Dar-ul-Uloom seminary, founded in 1979, which has trained Sunni clerics from across the eastern provinces. The exterior is a pale brick with restrained tile work, suited to the dust and light of the plateau.