— — the pink the lake leaves on the wind.
“A city of mosques, churches and walled gardens on the plain between the Zagros foothills and the great salt lake that gives the province its older name. Urmia is Iran's Assyrian Christian centre and one of its oldest continuously inhabited towns. The lake at its eastern edge, once the largest in the Middle East, has retreated for thirty years; what water remains turns rose in late summer.
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Urmia sits at roughly 1,330 metres on the plain west of Lake Urmia, historically one of the largest hypersaline lakes on earth. The city is the capital of West Azerbaijan Province and home to about 736,000 people, predominantly Azerbaijani Turkic with long-standing Assyrian Christian and Armenian communities. The plain is bordered to the west by the Zagros mountains and the Turkish frontier, and the lake itself lies some twenty kilometres to the east.
Lake Urmia has lost more than 80 percent of its surface area since the 1990s, the combined effect of upstream damming, agricultural extraction and a warming climate. As the lake shrinks the salinity rises, and halophilic microbes including the archaeon Halobacterium turn the remaining water a deep rose-pink in the hot months. The colour is most pronounced from July through September. A restoration programme begun in 2013 has stabilised, but not reversed, the decline.
Urmia's calendar runs across three faith communities. Nowruz at the spring equinox empties the bazaar for two weeks. The Assyrian church marks Kha b-Nisan, the Assyrian new year, on April 1, with processions that originate in a community settled here for nearly two millennia. The cathedral of Mart Maryam, claimed by local tradition as one of the oldest churches in the world, anchors the Assyrian quarter near the old citadel.