— a citadel that watches the valley sleep.
“A Lori city in the folds of the Zagros, with a Sassanid fortress on a basalt outcrop above the river. The castle has watched twelve hundred years of caravans come up from Khuzestan and turn east. Around the foot of the hill, the old bazaar still keeps its arches. Lorestan keeps to itself, and Khorramabad keeps the gate.
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Khorramabad is the capital of Lorestan Province in western Iran, set in a narrow valley of the central Zagros mountains at roughly 1,170 metres elevation. The city traces continuous habitation to the Sassanid era and grew along the old caravan road linking Khuzestan to Hamadan. Around 370,000 people live here today, most of Lori heritage, speaking a distinct Western Iranian language. The Khorramabad River runs through the centre, and the basalt outcrop of the Falak-ol-Aflak rises above the city core.
The Falak-ol-Aflak castle sits on a stone hill in the centre of the city. Its lower courses are Sassanid, raised between the third and seventh centuries, with twelve towers ringing a courtyard that once held a garrison and a Zoroastrian fire. Later Safavid and Qajar rulers added the upper chambers. The fortress now houses the Lorestan archaeological and anthropological museum, which holds Bronze Age bronzes from the surrounding valleys, some dating to the third millennium BCE.
The castle museum opens daily, with shorter hours in the winter months when snow closes the higher Zagros passes. Khorramabad is reached by road from Tehran, about 490 kilometres south-west, or by a short flight to Khorramabad Airport. The Bishe waterfall, on the Trans-Iranian Railway about 70 kilometres south, makes a common day-trip pairing, as does the Gerdab-e Sangi, a Sassanid-era stone basin near the castle that still holds spring water.