— — a courtyard the country comes home to.
“The mausoleum of Ali al-Rida, the eighth Imam of Twelver Shia Islam, who died in 818. The complex around the tomb has grown for twelve centuries into the largest mosque in the world by area, drawing about thirty million pilgrims each year. Mashhad, the place of martyrdom, grew with it. The golden dome holds the inner courtyard; the outer courts keep filling and emptying like tides.
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The Imam Reza Shrine stands at the centre of Mashhad, capital of Razavi Khorasan province in northeastern Iran, about 850 kilometres east of Tehran and a hundred kilometres from the Turkmen and Afghan borders. The complex covers roughly 600,000 square metres including its courtyards, prayer halls, museums, and seminaries, and is administered by Astan Quds Razavi, one of the largest charitable foundations in Iran. Mashhad's population is about 3.4 million, making it Iran's second city after Tehran. The shrine is reached on foot through any of the bast (sanctuary) gates.
The mausoleum was first built shortly after Imam Reza's death in 818 and rebuilt under successive Ghaznavid, Timurid, and Safavid dynasties; little of the original structure remains visible above ground. The golden dome above the tomb chamber was first gilded by Shah Tahmasp in the sixteenth century. The Goharshad Mosque, on the southern side of the complex, was completed in 1418 under Timurid patronage and is among the finest works of Persian Islamic architecture. Seven major courtyards, faced in mirror-work, calligraphy, and tilework in cobalt and turquoise, surround the inner sanctum.
The shrine never closes; pilgrim numbers swell at fixed points in the Islamic calendar. The anniversary of Imam Reza's birth (11 Dhul Qa'dah) and of his martyrdom (30 Safar) draw the largest crowds. Pilgrimage from Tehran on foot, the Arba'een-adjacent Mashhad walk, has revived since the 2000s and now brings hundreds of thousands each Safar. Friday congregational prayer fills the main courtyards. Non-Muslim visitors may enter most outer courtyards and museums but not the inner sanctum; modest dress and a chador for women are required.