— — the slow city the kings kept.
“A Javanese royal city on the banks of the Solo River, quieter than Yogyakarta sixty kilometres west. Two courts, the Kasunanan and the Mangkunegaran, still hold the old ceremonies. The batik market at Pasar Klewer runs from dawn. Mount Lawu rises east of town. The pace here is gentler than the rest of Java, by local design and old habit.
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Surakarta, known locally as Solo, sits on the Bengawan Solo River in the south-central plain of Java, Indonesia. The city, population around 520,000, is one of the two royal capitals of Javanese culture; the other is Yogyakarta, roughly sixty kilometres west. Two palaces stand within the city: the Keraton Kasunanan, founded in 1745, and the Pura Mangkunegaran, founded in 1757, when the Mataram court was divided. Mount Lawu, a stratovolcano reaching 3,265 metres, rises to the east. The Bengawan Solo is the longest river on Java at around 600 kilometres.
Solo is a centre of Javanese batik, the wax-resist textile tradition inscribed by UNESCO on its Representative List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009. The Pasar Klewer market, beside the Kasunanan palace, has traded cloth since the early twentieth century and remains the country's largest batik market. The court calendars set the city's rhythm: Sekaten in the month of Mulud, Grebeg Maulud at the Kasunanan, Kirab Pusaka on the Javanese new year. Many of the gamelan ensembles trained in the palace tradition still play in Solo today.
Solo is reached by train from Yogyakarta in about an hour, or by air through Adi Soemarmo International Airport. The Kasunanan and Mangkunegaran palaces both open to visitors, with separate ticketing; both close on certain ceremony days. Pasar Klewer trades from early morning into the afternoon. The dry season, May to September, is the most settled time; the wet season from November carries afternoon rain that the city absorbs without much fuss. Mount Lawu, an hour east, draws hikers from the Cemoro Sewu trailhead at around 1,800 metres.