— horses on the beach at low tide.
“An island roughly the size of Jamaica, dry where most of Indonesia is wet, with a long uplifted limestone coast and a high savanna interior. Marapu ritual still moves the calendar in the western villages, where carved stone tombs sit in the centre of family compounds. February brings the Pasola, a spear-on-horseback ceremony on opened ground. The horses are small and quick. The cloth is deep with indigo and morinda.
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Sumba lies in East Nusa Tenggara province, about 400 kilometres east of Bali and south of Flores across the Sumba Strait. The island covers roughly 11,000 square kilometres, close to the area of Jamaica, and is one of the driest islands in Indonesia, with a marked monsoon season from December through March. The interior rises to Wanggameti at 1,225 metres in the eastern highlands. Population at the 2020 census was about 779,000, divided across four regencies: West Sumba, Southwest Sumba, Central Sumba, and East Sumba.
The Pasola ritual battle opens the Marapu year in West and Southwest Sumba, usually in February or March, on dates set by the rato priests reading the seasonal nyale sea-worms washed up on the south coast. Riders from two opposing villages throw blunted wooden spears at each other from horseback across an open field. Blood spilled on the ground is understood to feed the harvest. The main sites are Wanokaka, Lamboya, and Gaura on the western coast, with viewing access opened to outside visitors during the ceremony.
Tambolaka Airport on the western side and Umbu Mehang Kunda Airport at Waingapu in the east take regional flights from Bali and Kupang. The Weekuri Lagoon and the Mandorak coast in the southwest, along with Tarimbang surf beach in the east, are the most-photographed shorelines. Walakiri Beach near Waingapu is known for its bowed mangrove trees at low tide. Visitors entering traditional villages should ask permission at the kepala desa, the village head, and bring a small gift of betel nut as a courtesy.