— — the city the sun crosses twice.
“The capital of West Kalimantan sits exactly on the equator, where the Kapuas — the longest river in Indonesia — meets the Landak. Wooden houses on stilts crowd the water; long boats carry leaf and timber upstream. Twice a year, at the equinox, shadows disappear under the equator monument at noon. The river runs the colour of strong tea, and the air carries the smoke of clove cigarettes.
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Pontianak is the capital of Indonesia's West Kalimantan province, on the western coast of Borneo at the confluence of the Kapuas Besar and Landak rivers. The equator runs directly through the city, marked by the Tugu Khatulistiwa monument on the north bank. Founded in 1771 by the Hashemite sultan Syarif Abdurrahman Alkadrie, the city now holds about 660,000 residents and serves as the principal port for the interior of Kalimantan.
The Kapuas, which Pontianak straddles, is the longest river in Indonesia at 1,143 kilometres, draining most of West Kalimantan from the Müller Mountains to the Java Sea. The current at the city is slow and tidal — flow reverses twice daily — and the water carries enough peat tannin to read the colour of dark tea. The traditional Malay houses along the banks stand on hardwood stilts above the high-water mark.
Pontianak is reached by direct flights from Jakarta and Kuala Lumpur into Supadio International Airport, about 17 kilometres south of the city. The Tugu Khatulistiwa equator monument is the principal landmark; the Sultan's palace, the Istana Kadriah, sits on the north bank and is open to visitors. The two equinoxes — around 21 March and 23 September — draw small crowds at noon to watch shadows vanish under the monument.