— — a temple that keeps its other god underwater.
“One of the 108 Divya Desams of Vaishnavism, on the east side of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu. The hundred-pillared mandapam carved under Vijayanagara patronage is the close-look reason most people come. The lesser-known reason is the Athi Varadar, a fig-wood Vishnu lifted from the temple tank once every forty years and shown for forty-eight days. The last viewing was 2019.
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The Varadharaja Perumal Temple stands in Vishnu Kanchi, the eastern half of the old temple city of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu's Kanchipuram district, about 75 kilometres southwest of Chennai. It is dedicated to Vishnu in his form as Varadaraja, the boon-giver, and is one of the 108 Divya Desams sung by the early-medieval Tamil Alvar poets. The temple complex covers about 23 acres and is built on a low hill the Vaishnava tradition names Hastagiri, the elephant hill. The principal sanctum sits at its summit, reached by a short flight of stone stairs.
The temple was founded under the Chola kings and substantially expanded by the Vijayanagara emperors in the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, including the Hundred-Pillared Mandapam attributed to the patronage of Krishnadevaraya in the early 1500s. The mandapam's monolithic granite pillars are carved with horse-riders trampling enemies, court musicians, and a famous chain-link cut from a single block of stone. The seven-tier eastern Rajagopuram rises to about 130 feet. The whole complex is protected by the Archaeological Survey of India as a Monument of National Importance.
The temple's most singular event is the appearance of the Athi Varadar, a roughly nine-foot Vishnu image carved from the wood of an Indian fig tree and kept submerged in the temple tank, Anantha Saras, for thirty-nine years out of every forty. Once a generation the image is lifted, restored, and displayed for forty-eight days of public darshan. The 2019 viewing drew several million pilgrims to Kanchipuram across July and August. The next is expected around 2059, by the same cycle that has been kept since at least the early modern era.