— — where Shravan walks a hundred kilometres in saffron.
“One of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Shiva, set in the temple town of Deoghar in Jharkhand. Through the month of Shravan, in July and August, Kanwariyas walk roughly 108 kilometres barefoot from Sultanganj on the Ganges, carrying river water in matching pots to pour over the lingam. The temple itself is small. The pilgrimage around it is among the largest annual religious gatherings on earth.
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Baba Baidyanath Dham stands in the centre of Deoghar, a town in the Santhal Parganas division of Jharkhand in eastern India. The temple complex holds the Jyotirlinga of Lord Shiva, one of twelve such shrines listed in the Shiva Purana. The main spire rises about 22 metres above the courtyard and is topped by an octagonal lotus crown of gold. The Parli Vaijnath temple in Maharashtra is also identified by some traditions as the same Jyotirlinga; both sites carry the lineage.
The Shravan Mela, the temple's defining cycle, runs through the lunar month of Shravan from roughly mid-July to mid-August. Kanwariyas, pilgrims dressed in saffron, collect water from the Ganges at Sultanganj in Bihar and walk the 108 kilometres south to Deoghar to pour it over the lingam. Estimated counts in recent years have crossed five million pilgrims across the month. Mahashivaratri, in late winter, brings a second smaller wave. The rest of the year the courtyard is quiet.
The temple sits in central Deoghar and is open to all Hindu pilgrims; non-Hindus may visit the outer courtyard. Entry to the main sanctum is free, with paid expedited darshan available outside the Shravan period. The nearest railway station is Baidyanath Dham, with through trains from Kolkata, Patna, and Howrah. Deoghar Airport, opened in 2022, takes flights from Delhi and Kolkata. During Shravan the entire town is given over to pilgrim traffic and ordinary tourism pauses.