— — a court city still wearing its court dress.
“The third city of Gujarat, on the slow Vishwamitri, still answering to its older name Baroda. The Gaekwads made it a court city, and the court ran on music, painting, and the long Sanskrit afternoon. The Laxmi Vilas Palace sits low in its grounds, four times the footprint of Buckingham, by some measures the largest private home in India. The light is dry, and the courtyards remember the dancers.
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
Vadodara sits on the Vishwamitri river in central Gujarat, about 110 kilometres southeast of Ahmedabad. With a metropolitan population near 2.2 million it is the state's third-largest city, and was the seat of the Gaekwad rulers of the princely Baroda State until accession to India in 1949. Maharaja Sayajirao III, who ruled from 1875 to 1939, made it a centre of education and the arts, founding the institution that became Maharaja Sayajirao University. The Gujarati name Vadodara was made official in 1974; the English Baroda is still heard in everyday use.
The Laxmi Vilas Palace, completed in 1890 for Sayajirao III, remains the residence of the Gaekwad family and is often described as the largest private home in India, four times the footprint of Buckingham Palace. The English architect Major Charles Mant designed it in the Indo-Saracenic manner, blending Mughal arches, Rajput jharokhas, and European interiors across twelve years of construction. The grounds hold the Navlakhi stepwell, a small zoo, and the Maharaja Fateh Singh Museum, which keeps Raja Ravi Varma canvases the dynasty commissioned in the late nineteenth century.
Vadodara's Navratri is among the largest garba gatherings in India. For nine nights each autumn, on a date set by the lunar calendar in September or October, the University Ground and the United Way grounds fill with concentric rings of dancers in chaniya choli, moving to live dhol and harmonium past midnight. The city's older self-description, Sanskari Nagari, the cultured city, is felt most clearly in this week, when the court tradition of the Gaekwads opens to the open street.