— — a temple town that fed a cuisine.
“A coastal town in Karnataka, between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats, built around the Krishna Matha that the philosopher Madhvacharya founded in the thirteenth century. The temple kitchen has been cooking for pilgrims for more than seven hundred years, and the vegetarian style it formalised — Udupi cuisine — became one of the defining cuisines of south India. The town reads quiet on weekdays and full on festival days. from the studio
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Udupi is a coastal city in the southwestern Indian state of Karnataka, roughly 60 kilometres north of Mangaluru and 400 kilometres west of Bengaluru. It is the headquarters of Udupi district and holds a population of about 165,000. The city sits on the narrow coastal plain between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats, a setting that shaped both its temple culture and its agricultural base of rice, coconut, and areca palm. The Tulu and Kannada languages are both common in daily speech.
The Krishna Matha was founded by the Vedanta philosopher Madhvacharya in the thirteenth century and remains the spiritual centre of the Dvaita school of Hindu philosophy. Eight ashta mathas surround the central temple, each headed by a swami who serves a two-year rotation administering the temple, a cycle called the Paryaya that has run continuously since the sixteenth century. The black-stone image of the boy Krishna is viewed through a silver-plated window of nine apertures, the Navagraha Kindi.
Udupi is served by the Konkan Railway on the line between Mangaluru and Mumbai, and by the Mangalore International Airport about 60 kilometres south. The Krishna Matha complex is open daily to visitors of any background, with the main darshan running through the morning and again in the evening; modest dress is expected and head-covering is appreciated for the inner sanctum. The temple kitchen serves free vegetarian meals to pilgrims, a tradition over seven hundred years old.