— — a city the water keeps.
“The summer capital of Jammu and Kashmir, set on a lake surface stitched with houseboats and shikaras. Mughal emperors built terraced gardens along the eastern shore in the seventeenth century. The Jhelum runs through the old city under nine bridges. In late spring the lotus fields bloom across the northern reaches of the lake.
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Srinagar lies in the Kashmir Valley at roughly 1,585 metres above sea level, on the banks of the Jhelum River and around Dal Lake. The city is the summer capital of the Indian union territory of Jammu and Kashmir. Founded in the sixth century and rebuilt many times, it carries layers of Hindu, Buddhist, Mughal, and Sufi history. The old city sits west of the river around Jamia Masjid, completed in 1402. The newer city, lake-side gardens, and houseboat colonies cluster east toward Hazratbal.
Dal Lake covers about eighteen square kilometres and shrinks each year as the floating gardens and silt push in. The wooden houseboats moored along its shores were first built in the late nineteenth century during the British period, when foreigners were forbidden to own land in Kashmir. They have been passed down within the same families for generations. Shikaras — long, painted canopied boats — ferry vegetables, flowers, and visitors between the floating gardens and the ghats from before dawn each morning.
The year in Srinagar moves through clear seasons. Almond blossom in Badamwari Garden in late March marks the start of the warm months. The Mughal gardens — Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh, Chashme Shahi — are at their best in April and May when the chinar trees leaf. July and August bring the lotus bloom across the northern reaches of Dal Lake. October turns the chinars rust-red. Winter closes the high passes; the lake itself freezes only rarely, most recently in the cold snap of January 2021.