— a town where the plains end and the hills begin.
“Where the plains end. Siliguri sits in north Bengal at the foot of the Darjeeling hills, where the Mahananda comes off the Himalayan slopes and the corridor narrows toward Bhutan, Sikkim, and the northeast. For travellers, it is the gateway: to the tea gardens above, to the Toy Train at New Jalpaiguri, to the Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary north of the city.
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Siliguri lies in the Darjeeling district of West Bengal, in the narrow corridor of land called the Chicken's Neck, which links the Indian mainland to the seven northeastern states. The city sits at the foot of the Eastern Himalaya, around one hundred and twenty metres above sea level, on the banks of the Mahananda river. It is the second-largest urban area in West Bengal after Kolkata and the principal trans-shipment hub for tea, timber, and travellers moving between the plains and the hills of Darjeeling, Sikkim, and Bhutan.
The air shifts here. South of the city the Gangetic plain runs flat and humid; a short drive north climbs into the tea slopes of Kurseong and Mirik, and the temperature drops several degrees with every few hundred metres of elevation. The pre-monsoon months of April and May bring afternoon kalbaisakhi storms off the hills. The southwest monsoon, from June through September, delivers most of the city's nearly three thousand millimetres of annual rainfall, among the wettest figures in mainland India.
Most visitors arrive through Bagdogra airport, about fifteen kilometres west of the city, or by rail at New Jalpaiguri, the junction where the narrow-gauge Darjeeling Himalayan Railway begins its climb to Darjeeling, a UNESCO World Heritage line since 1999. Shared jeeps and Toy Train carriages leave through the morning for Kurseong, Ghum, and Darjeeling. The Mahananda Wildlife Sanctuary, north of the city along the river, protects elephant and gaur habitat in the lower Himalayan forest belt.