— — the hill station the empire ran from in summer.
“At 2,200 metres in the lower Himalayas, Shimla served as the summer capital of British India from 1864 to 1947 — the empire ruled a fifth of the world from a ridge of pine and deodar for half of every year. Christ Church still stands above the Ridge, the Mall Road still runs the spine of the town, and the narrow-gauge Kalka–Shimla railway still climbs the same 96 kilometres it has since 1903.
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Shimla sits at roughly 2,200 metres in the lower Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh, in north India. The town strings along a curving ridge of pine, oak, and deodar cedar, with the older built-up area concentrated between Christ Church and the Viceregal Lodge. About 170,000 people live in the municipality, and the population swells through the summer months. The British Raj declared Shimla its official summer capital in 1864, and the government moved here from Calcutta — later Delhi — for half of every year until 1947.
The air at 2,200 metres is thinner, cooler, and resin-scented; summer highs rarely climb above 25°C, and winter brings snow to the Ridge from December through February. The town's pine and deodar canopy is part of the Indian Himalayan biodiversity belt — deodar (Cedrus deodara) can live more than 600 years and reach 50 metres at maturity. Troops of Hanuman langur and rhesus macaque from the slopes above Jakhu Temple come down through the bazaars when the weather turns. The light at altitude has a clean, low-humidity edge.
The Kalka–Shimla narrow-gauge railway, opened in 1903 and inscribed by UNESCO in 2008, climbs 96 kilometres from the plains through 102 tunnels and across 864 bridges; the journey takes roughly five hours. Christ Church on the Ridge, consecrated in 1857, is the second-oldest church in north India. The Mall Road and the Ridge are closed to motor traffic. Indian summer holidaymakers fill the town between April and June, when Delhi sits above 40°C and the hill stations come back into their long-standing role.