— — the slow heat of the plain before monsoon.
“The capital of Chhattisgarh, on the open plain east of the Maikal Hills. People call this region the rice bowl of central India, and the air carries that — wet paddies, cane, the long heat before the monsoon breaks. Burha Talab still anchors the old town; the new city spreads around it in long straight roads. A working city, in its own way.
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Raipur sits on the central Indian plain at roughly 298 metres of elevation, the administrative capital of Chhattisgarh since the state was carved out of Madhya Pradesh in November 2000. With a metropolitan population near 1.5 million, it is the largest city in the state and an old trading hub for rice, timber, and the iron ore of the Bastar belt to the south. The Mahanadi river runs east of the city; the Maikal Hills rise to the north. Modern Raipur reaches outward along straight new roads, while the historic core still wraps the Burha Talab tank at the centre.
The climate runs hot semi-arid, in three sharp seasons. April and May press past 40°C on the open plain, with dust carried on the wind from the surrounding fields. The southwest monsoon breaks in mid-June and lasts into late September, bringing the long rains that feed the paddies the region is named for. Winter is short and dry, mornings dropping near 10°C in January. October air around the city smells of cane being cut and burned in the outlying districts.
Burha Talab — the old tank — has been the heart of the city since long before the British. A man-made lake of roughly 30 acres in the historic centre, lined now with a walking promenade and a tall statue of Swami Vivekananda rising from a small island near the bank. It is one of a chain of old water bodies inside the city, alongside Maharajbandh and Kankali Talab. Residents walk the perimeter in the early morning, before the heat takes the day.