— — the colour the festival leaves on the stone.
“The temple sits on Bhanugarh, the highest of Barsana's four hills, looking south across the Braj plain. Pilgrims climb the stone steps before sunrise, when the heat is still folded under the fields. The walls keep a stain of pink from Lathmar Holi every spring, the red sandstone soft underfoot.
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Śrī Rādhā Rānī Temple, also called Shriji Temple, crowns Bhanugarh hill above the town of Barsana in Mathura district, Uttar Pradesh. The Braj region, the cluster of towns south of Delhi associated with Krishna's youth, places Barsana about 50 kilometres from Mathura and 42 from Vrindavan. The present red and yellow sandstone structure was built largely under Raja Veer Singh Deo of Orchha in the early seventeenth century, with later additions. Roughly two hundred stone steps climb the hill from the town to the temple courtyard.
Barsana is the centre of Lathmar Holi, celebrated the week before the main Holi festival. Women of Barsana strike men from neighbouring Nandgaon with long sticks in a ritual reenactment of Radha and Krishna's play, and the courtyards run with coloured powder and water. The temple draws its largest crowds during this week and during Radhashtami in late August or early September, the birthday of Radha. Outside festival season the hill is quiet, with the morning aarti the busiest hour of the day.
The temple opens before dawn for the first aarti and closes around midday, reopening in the late afternoon through the evening aarti. Entry is free; shoes are removed at the base of the hill. The climb is steep, a few hundred uneven stone steps, and dolis (carried chairs) are available for visitors who can't walk it. Photography is restricted inside the inner sanctum. The closest rail and road hub is Mathura, around an hour south, with frequent shared taxis to Barsana through the day.