— the monsoon turning Peshwa stone green.
“Maharashtra's second city, set on the Deccan Plateau where the Mula and Mutha rivers meet. The old Peshwa capital still stands in basalt and laterite at Shaniwar Wada. East of the city, the Aga Khan Palace remembers Gandhi. In June the monsoon arrives off the Western Ghats, turns the hills around Sinhagad green, and the air smells like wet earth and night-blooming jasmine.
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Pune sits on the Deccan Plateau in the western Indian state of Maharashtra, roughly 150 kilometres southeast of Mumbai, at an elevation of about 560 metres. The Mula and Mutha rivers meet at the city centre, joining as the Mula-Mutha. The city population is around 3.1 million and the metropolitan area over 7 million, the second-largest urban region in Maharashtra. Pune served as the seat of the Maratha Peshwas from 1730 to 1818, when the British East India Company took the city after the Battle of Khadki. It is widely called the Oxford of the East for its universities.
Shaniwar Wada is the Peshwa palace-fort at the centre of old Pune, begun in 1730 by Bajirao I and completed in 1732. The walls, of black basalt and laterite faced with a stucco of lime and jaggery, enclosed a palace of seven storeys before a fire in 1828 reduced it to its stone footings and bastions. The Delhi Darwaza, the main gate facing north, still carries its iron-spiked timbers. About 12 kilometres west, the Sinhagad Fort holds a basalt ridge at 1,312 metres, taken by Tanaji Malusare in 1670 in a night assault.
Pune's year is shaped by the southwest monsoon. The rains arrive in the first or second week of June, when moist air off the Arabian Sea climbs the Western Ghats forty kilometres west and breaks over the Deccan, and they continue through September. Annual rainfall averages around 740 millimetres, most of it in those four months. The hill stations west of the city, Lonavala and Khandala, see more than double that. After the rains, the Sahyadri ridges around Sinhagad turn fully green, waterfalls run on the Mulshi side, and the dry-season dust is finally gone.