— — the syllable the river keeps repeating.
“A temple on Mandhata, a wedge of rock in the Narmada River shaped, the locals say, like the symbol Om. It is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, the most revered Shiva sites in India. Pilgrims walk a seven-kilometre parikrama around the island, past smaller shrines and ghats where the morning aarti sets oil lamps onto the current. The river holds the sound long after the bells stop. — from the studio
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Omkareshwar stands on Mandhata island in the Narmada River, in the Khandwa district of Madhya Pradesh, about 77 kilometres south of Indore. The island is roughly two kilometres long and is said to take the shape of the Devanagari Om. The temple is one of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Shiva, the most sacred class of Shiva shrines in Hinduism, and is paired in the same valley with the Mamleshwar temple on the south bank. Two pedestrian bridges and a regular boat service link the island to the mainland town.
The present temple sits on a much older sacred site, with the surviving sanctum and tower largely Paramara-era stone work from the 11th to 13th centuries, restored and added to many times since. The shikhara rises in tiers of carved sandstone above a low square sanctum that holds a self-manifested lingam set in the bedrock of the island. Down the slope, the Mamleshwar complex and the Siddhanath temple keep older fragments of the same regional carving tradition.
The temple opens at about 5 a.m. for the morning Mangala Aarti and closes around 9:30 p.m. after the night aarti, with a midday break common to most Jyotirlinga shrines. Entry to the temple is free; a paid sponsor queue cuts the wait on busy days. Many pilgrims complete the parikrama, a seven-kilometre walking circuit of the island, before the heat. Mahashivaratri, in February or March, draws the largest crowds of the year and the river is lit with floating lamps at dusk.