— — the temple the road climbs slowly to find.
“A Shiva temple at roughly 1,330 metres in the Pauri Garhwal hills of Uttarakhand, about 32 kilometres by mountain road from Rishikesh. The name marks the moment Shiva drank the world's poison and his throat turned blue. Pilgrims arrive on foot through the Manikoot, Brahmakoot, and Vishnukoot ridges, especially during the month of Shravan and on Maha Shivaratri, when the queues thread for kilometres back down the forest. from the studio
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Neelkanth Mahadev sits on a forested ridge of Pauri Garhwal district, Uttarakhand, at roughly 1,330 metres elevation. It lies about 32 kilometres by road north-east of Rishikesh, between the Manikoot, Brahmakoot, and Vishnukoot peaks, at the confluence of the Pankaja and Madhumati streams. The temple is dedicated to Shiva in his Neelkantha form, the blue-throated one, and is among the most visited Shaivite sites in Garhwal, drawing pilgrims year-round from Haridwar and the wider Uttarakhand plains.
Two windows draw the largest crowds. The Hindu month of Shravan, falling across July and August, brings the kanwariyas — pilgrims who carry Ganga water from Haridwar on foot to pour over the lingam. Maha Shivaratri, in February or March, is the temple's other peak, with all-night vigils and chanting. Outside these windows the ridge is quieter, the trail through sal and rhododendron forest is open, and the brass bells in the courtyard ring without queueing.
The road from Rishikesh climbs through Swargashram, crosses the Ganga, and switches back through the Rajaji forest before reaching the temple gate. The drive takes around an hour and a half; a pilgrim trail of roughly 12 kilometres also runs from Swargashram for those walking. The temple opens before dawn and closes after the evening aarti. Garhwal monsoon rains, June through September, can shut the road; the cool months from October to March are the steadier window.