— — the river that gathers a city every twelve years.
“An old pilgrimage city on the upper Godavari, four hours northeast of Mumbai by road. The river runs through the centre past stone ghats where families bathe and priests perform rites at dawn. Every twelve years the Sinhastha Kumbh Mela brings millions of pilgrims to the same banks. Around the city the basalt plateau gives way to vineyards and pomegranate orchards, and the hills above Trimbak hold the small spring that the river is said to begin from. from the studio
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Nashik sits on the Deccan plateau in northern Maharashtra, about 165 kilometres northeast of Mumbai and 210 kilometres northwest of Pune. The city stands on the banks of the Godavari, one of the longest rivers in India, which rises at Trimbakeshwar 28 kilometres to the west and runs eastward to the Bay of Bengal. Recent census figures place the metropolitan population above 1.5 million. The surrounding district produces the bulk of India's table grapes and is the centre of the country's wine industry, with more than thirty wineries clustered between Nashik and the Sahyadri foothills.
Every twelve years Nashik hosts the Sinhastha Kumbh Mela, one of four rotating Hindu pilgrimage gatherings held when Jupiter enters Leo. The 2015 edition drew an estimated 75 million pilgrims over its full run, most of them to bathe at the Ramkund and the surrounding ghats on the Godavari. The festival has been observed on this stretch of river for centuries and is linked in tradition to episodes from the Ramayana, which place Rama, Sita, and Lakshmana's forest exile near present-day Panchavati. The next Sinhastha cycle falls in 2027.
Most travellers arrive from Mumbai by road, a four- to five-hour drive on NH-160, or by train to Nashik Road station eight kilometres southeast of the centre. Pandavleni, a complex of 24 Buddhist rock-cut caves on Trivashmi Hill dating from the first century BCE, sits eight kilometres south of the city. Trimbakeshwar Temple, one of the twelve Jyotirlinga shrines of Shiva, lies at the headwaters of the Godavari to the west. The wine route through Sula, York, and Soma is most pleasant between November and February when the vines are in leaf and the weather is dry.