— — the river that goes the other way.
“One of India's seven sacred rivers, the Narmada rises high on the Amarkantak plateau in Madhya Pradesh and runs west for thirteen hundred kilometres to the Gulf of Khambhat. Most of the great Indian rivers flow east; the Narmada does not. Pilgrims walk her banks on a circumambulation that takes three years and three months, and never cross the water. — from the studio
Each tile is finished by hand in our Knoxville studio. Artwork is slowly infused into the ceramic surface under high heat and pressure, and rests beneath a thin glossy finish. The colour lives in the surface, not on top of it.
Pick any four 4-inch tiles — National Parks you've been to, a Smokies set, the four seasons of one place. $ for a set of , cork-backed, ready to live on the table.
The Narmada rises at Amarkantak in eastern Madhya Pradesh, at an elevation of around 1,057 metres on the Maikal range, and flows roughly 1,312 kilometres west through a rift valley between the Vindhya and Satpura ranges before reaching the Gulf of Khambhat near Bharuch in Gujarat. She is one of only two major peninsular Indian rivers, with the Tapti, to flow westward into the Arabian Sea rather than east to the Bay of Bengal. The basin drains nearly 99,000 square kilometres across three states.
At Bhedaghat near Jabalpur, the Narmada has cut a gorge through soft Proterozoic marble; the cliffs rise around thirty metres above the water and run for roughly three kilometres. Local boatmen punt visitors through the gorge under names that have been used for centuries — Bandar Kudni, Hathi Ka Paon. Further downstream the river is held back by the Sardar Sarovar Dam, raised to its full height of 163 metres in 2017, one of the largest concrete gravity dams in the world. Above and below the dam she carries the same pale colour.
The Narmada Parikrama is the pilgrimage that walks the full length of both banks without ever crossing the water — about 3,300 kilometres on foot, traditionally completed in three years, three months, and thirteen days. Pilgrims sleep at ashrams and roadside dharamshalas along the route, and the river is addressed as 'Maa Narmada', Mother Narmada. The practice is older than most of the temples on her banks. A walker carries little, eats what is offered along the way, and turns at the source and again at the sea.