— — the city the saint stayed in.
“A small Gujarati city on the old Ahmedabad-Vadodara line, built around the Santram Mandir and the slow trade of milk and grain. The streets run quiet around the temple compound in the afternoon, then fill again at evening aarti. Trains pass without stopping. The dairy cooperatives that built Anand began their work in towns like this one. Sardar Patel sat his school exams here. A place that does not advertise itself. — from the studio
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Nadiad is the headquarters of Kheda district in central Gujarat, on the western railway corridor about 60 km south of Ahmedabad and 50 km north of Vadodara. It sits in the Charotar tract, a fertile alluvial plain between the Mahi and Sabarmati rivers, long associated with cooperative dairying that gave rise to Amul at nearby Anand. The town's nine lakes and the Santram Mandir, founded in 1816, anchor the older quarters. Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel attended secondary school in Nadiad, a fact the city keeps in plain view on the old school building.
The Santram Mandir compound is the architectural heart: a walled complex of shrines, dharmashalas and a kitchen that has served free meals to pilgrims for over two centuries. Saint Santram Maharaj is said to have arrived in 1816 and stayed until his samadhi in 1830. The Hadeva Haveli and the Dabhan Gate carry the carved teak brackets and stone jaalis of the late Maratha-era Gujarati style. Mahagujarat College, founded in 1968, draws students from across Kheda. The civic buildings around Santram Road are quietly municipal — pale plaster, deep verandahs.
Nadiad station sits on the Mumbai-Ahmedabad main line; nearly every northbound express stops here, which makes the city an easy half-day from either Ahmedabad or Vadodara. The Santram Mandir is open from early morning through evening aarti and welcomes visitors without ticket. Bhog is served midday. October through February is the comfortable season, with daytime highs in the mid-twenties Celsius. The Charotar food the city is known for — dabeli, fafda, the local jalebi — is best in the lanes off Santram Road late in the afternoon.