— the palace the festival lights remember.
“A city of palaces and sandalwood in southern Karnataka, about a hundred and forty kilometres from Bangalore. Amba Vilas glows under a hundred thousand bulbs during the ten nights of Dasara, then goes quiet again. The rest of the year it's silk weavers, the slow climb up Chamundi Hill, and the smell of jasmine from the morning market.
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Mysuru sits on the Deccan Plateau at about 770 metres, roughly 145 kilometres southwest of Bengaluru in the state of Karnataka. It was the seat of the Wodeyar dynasty for nearly six centuries and served as the capital of the princely state of Mysore until 1947. The current city of about 900,000 grew around Amba Vilas Palace and the slopes of Chamundi Hill, a granite outcrop topped by the Chamundeshwari Temple. The palace district, the Devaraja Market, and the silk and sandalwood trades still anchor daily life.
The city's calendar bends around Dasara, the ten-night festival that closes with Vijayadashami in late September or early October. The royal procession dates to the late sixteenth century under the Wodeyars and still moves a decorated elephant through the streets to Bannimantap. For the duration of the festival Amba Vilas Palace is outlined in nearly a hundred thousand incandescent bulbs, a tradition stretching back to the Wodeyar era. Hotels fill months ahead, sweets shops triple their output of Mysore pak, and the whole city stays up late.
The palace is open daily from 10 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. and lit on Sunday evenings and public holidays. Photography inside the durbar hall is restricted; cameras and shoes are checked at the entrance. Chamundi Hill, about 13 kilometres from the city centre, is reached by road or by climbing the stone stairway past the monolithic Nandi carved in the seventeenth century. The K. Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Institute in Gokulam draws practitioners from around the world for month-long study.