— — the colour of brass under a slow afternoon.
“A working city on the Ramganga River in western Uttar Pradesh, known across India as Peetal Nagri, the Brass City. Tens of thousands of artisans turn sheet brass into trays, lamps, and engraved vessels in workshops folded into the old lanes. The Jama Masjid, raised by Rustam Khan in 1631, still anchors the centre. Exports leave for Europe, the Gulf, and North America.
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Moradabad sits on the west bank of the Ramganga River in western Uttar Pradesh, about 167 kilometres east of Delhi by road. Rustam Khan, the Mughal governor of Sambhal, founded the city in 1600 and named it for Prince Murad Baksh, fourth son of the emperor Shah Jahan. The 2011 census recorded a city population of about 890,000, with the urban agglomeration well above one million. The Northern Railway zone runs through Moradabad Junction, one of the busier stations on the Delhi to Lucknow line.
The brass trade gives the city its second name, Peetal Nagri. Workshops cluster in mohallas such as Peetal Basti and Mughalpura, with families that have shaped, hammered, etched, and electroplated brass for several generations. The Moradabad cluster handled roughly seventy percent of India's brass handicraft exports through the 2010s, sending engraved trays, lamps, mirrors, and ceremonial vessels to buyers in Germany, the United States, and the Gulf. The Export Promotion Council recognises Moradabad brassware as a registered Geographical Indication.
The Jama Masjid, raised by Rustam Khan in 1631 on a low rise above the river, still anchors the old city. The Sai Temple at Lakhipura draws long Thursday queues. The Moradabad Hat, a permanent crafts market, runs daily near the railway station. Winters between November and February are the easy season for walking the old lanes; summers cross 40°C. Indira Gandhi International Airport in Delhi, four hours west by road, is the nearest international gateway for buyers visiting the brass cluster.