— — a dairy town with a sun temple down the road.
“A flat town on the cotton-and-millet plain of north Gujarat, about 75 kilometres north of Ahmedabad. Mehsana gave its name to a breed of black buffalo with curled horns, and the buffalo gave the district to Amul. The cooperative dairies run through the night. South of town, the Solanki kings built the Modhera Sun Temple in the eleventh century, its step-well still holding water in the dry months. The morning trains from Ahmedabad come in through fields of cumin. From the studio.
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Mehsana is a city and the district headquarters of Mehsana district on the north Gujarat plain, about 75 kilometres north of Ahmedabad along National Highway 48. The 2011 Indian census recorded a city population near 190,000. It was founded as a Chavda settlement in the fourteenth century and grew under the Gaekwads of Baroda. Modern Mehsana is built around three industries: cooperative dairy through the Dudhsagar union, oil and gas through ONGC's Mehsana asset, and pharmaceuticals. The terrain is flat, hot, and farmed in cotton, mustard, cumin, and castor.
The Mehsani buffalo, recognised as a distinct breed by the National Bureau of Animal Genetic Resources, is the foundation of the local dairy economy. Dudhsagar Dairy, the Mehsana District Cooperative Milk Producers' Union founded in 1960 and a flagship member of Amul, processes one of the largest daily milk intakes of any cooperative in India, with reported peaks above 1.5 million litres a day. The collection points and chilling centres run through the night, and the trucks roll into the main plant before dawn. The cycle is daily, year-round.
About 25 kilometres southwest of the town, the Modhera Sun Temple was built by King Bhima I of the Solanki dynasty around 1026 CE, dedicated to Surya. Three connected structures sit on a single axis: the Surya Kund, a rectangular step-well with 108 small shrines along its terraces; the Sabha Mandap, an open assembly pavilion; and the Guda Mandap, the sanctum. The temple is set so the first light of the equinox sun reaches the sanctum. UNESCO added Modhera to its tentative list in 2022. The local sandstone is the colour of warm rope.