— — a city the goddess never left.
“One of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in India, on the Vaigai River in the south of Tamil Nadu. The Meenakshi Amman temple stands at its centre, its fourteen gopurams covered in painted figures, and the streets fall away from it in concentric rings the old Sangam poets would still recognise. The evening procession of the goddess to her consort's shrine has been performed here for many centuries.
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Madurai sits on the Vaigai River in the south of Tamil Nadu, about 460 kilometres south of Chennai. Settled for more than two thousand five hundred years, it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in India and the historical capital of the Pandya kingdom. The city plan is concentric — old Tamil texts describe four rectangular streets around the Meenakshi temple, a layout still legible on a satellite image today. The Tamil Sangam, an academy of poets that produced the foundational corpus of Tamil literature, was based here in antiquity. The modern city holds around 1.5 million people.
The Meenakshi Amman temple, dedicated to the goddess Meenakshi and her consort Sundareshwara, occupies a fourteen-acre walled complex at the centre of the old city. The present structure was largely built in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries under the Nayak rulers, though the site is much older. Fourteen gopuram towers rise above the walls, the tallest reaching about fifty-two metres, each densely covered in painted stucco figures. The thousand-pillared hall on the north side holds 985 carved columns. Each evening the deity Sundareshwara is carried in procession from his shrine to Meenakshi's.
The temple's calendar is the city's calendar. The twelve-day Chithirai festival in April and May draws around a million pilgrims, peaking with the celestial marriage of Meenakshi and Sundareshwara and the chariot procession of Kallazhagar from the nearby Alagar temple. The Float Festival in January or February floats the deities on the Mariamman Teppakulam tank by lamplight. The Avani Moolam in August commemorates Shiva's sixty-four sacred games at Madurai. Outside festival weeks the temple still receives roughly twenty-five thousand visitors a day.